Givenchy’s Paris Fashion Week show on Sunday was full of structured tailoring, floaty evening wear and lots of embellishments.
At the helm of the French fashion house is Clare Waight Keller, Megan Markle’s wedding dress designer.
The Brit’s collection for spring and summer 2019 was full of mostly muted tones and genderless silhouettes.
“I wanted it to feel strong, determined, unapologetic,” she said backstage.
“It’s about recognising the power of who you are and who you want to be”.
It’s been an important year for Waight Keller, who not only designed the royal wedding dress, but made her debut at Givenchy this time last year.
The Birmingham-born designer replaced Riccardo Tisci when he went to Burberry, becoming the first female artistic director at Givenchy.
“Waight Keller could very easily have revelled in royal wedding afterglow,” said The Guardian’s Jess Cartner-Morley.
“Instead, she used her evening at Paris fashion week to show that her vision and ambition reached far beyond one beautiful wedding dress.”
Waight Keller said she was inspired by journalist and writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, who was gender fluid throughout her life.
“Once again Givenchy’s women and men shared the same runway – and this time, the same clothes,” said GQ’s Matt Sebra.
He added: “It was Waight Keller’s most assured men’s ready-to-wear outing for Givenchy yet.”
Held inside the Palais de Justice, a Givenchy logo was projected on to the show space, whilst techno music was blasted from the speakers.
Marta Represa wrote for Wallpaper that the design was deliberate: “Guests cruised through the endless corridors of the Palais de Justice in near-complete darkness, illuminated only by a laser trail bouncing from mirrors.
“As it turned out, it was a symbol: one of blurred sartorial gender codes.”
In the collection, this neutrality could be seen through unisex items like trench coats and embellished blazers.
However, there were also elements of the Givenchy show that had a clear distinction between menswear and womenswear, including floaty dresses and blouses for women and tailored trousers and shirts for men.
Fashionista writer Tyler McCall was full of praise for the women’s collection: “Waight Keller is really making her mark on women’s ready-to-wear, presenting the kinds of clothes that are sophisticated, smart and luxurious enough to warrant a luxury price tag.”